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waypoints
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click here or on the image above for more roadtrip kit and kaboodle photos
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day 1: packed and ready
grafton, wi
just some stuff about what gets packed for a 7-week roadtrip and how it gets packed.
+ TD
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click here or on the image above for more bed & breakfast and campsite photos
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bonus section: campsites and bed & breakfasts
When we're not camping, we like to stay at a bed & breakfast. Some of the bed & breakfasts we've stayed in have been
outstanding and some of the campsites stand out from all the rest. Here are some of the best. This section will be added to
as we go along!
+ TD
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click here or on the image above for more pecos national historic park photos
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new mexico
pecos national historic site
The National Park service has this to say about Pecos:
"Pueblo and Plains Indians, Spanish conquerors and missionaries, Mexican and Anglo armies, Santa Fe Trail settlers and
adventurers, tourists on the railroad, Route 66 and Interstate 25...the Pecos Valley has long been a backdrop that invites
contemplation about where our civilization comes from and where it is going."
Pecos is one of the sites of a sometimes
violent clash of ancestral puebloan culture and spaniard mission efforts. Today, the whole area is a curious smashup of
ancestral symbolism, renewed interest in the old ways, heavy Catholic influences, and above all, the almost-complete triumph
of commerce over all of it.
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click here or on the image above for more kasha-katuwe tent rocks photos
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new mexico
kasha-katuwe tent rocks national monument
This site is managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, the neglected branch of our currently dysfunctional Dept. of the Interior.
BLM has this to say:
"The cone-shaped tent rock formations are the products of volcanic eruptions that occurred 6 to 7
million years ago and left pumice, ash, and tuff deposits over 1,000 feet thick. Tremendous explosions from the Jemez volcanic
field spewed pyroclasts (rock fragments), while searing hot gases blasted down slopes in an incandescent avalanche called a
pyroclastic flow.
Precariously perched on many of the tapering hoodoos are boulder caps that protect the softer pumice and tuff below. Some tents
have lost their hard, resistant caprocks, and are disintegrating. While fairly uniform in shape, the tent rock formations vary
in height from a few feet up to 90 feet."
Parking was a challenge - we just happened to luck into a place - and there were too many people on the trail,
which follows along in an exquisite slot canyon. Overuse is a real problem that, it turns out, we will find in most of the
places we visit.
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click here or on the image above for more chaco photos
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new mexico
chaco culture national historic park
We camped at Chaco Culture National Historic Park two years ago and planned on camping there again, but updates to the
campground made that difficult, so we drove in for the day. The road into the park
(described HERE) has not improved in the two years
since we first drove on it but our jeep was much better suited to it. The part of the road that is packed dirt (about 10 of the
20 miles of gravel/dirt) becomes impassable when it rains much and we managed to get back to the paved road just as a major
thunderstorm began to dump buckets of water from the sky.
Chaco was the spiritual center of an ancient world. The massive buildings of the ancestral Pueblo peoples are constructed in a
distinctive style that shows up everywhere these people migrated, and this site was in use between 850 and 1250 A.D..
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click here or on the image above for more salmon ruins photos
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new mexico
salmon ruins and heritage park
Just off the highway that runs between Bloomfied and Farmington, Salmon Ruins is actually maintained by a non-profit, the
San Juan County Archaeological Research Center & Library. It is one of the largest outlying colonies built in the Chacoan
style during the 11th century and features the same building style as that found at Chaco. According to Archaeolgy Southwest:
"Salmon Pueblo was constructed as a Chacoan outlier - a settlement or enclave of people from Chaco Canyon - around A.D. 1090.
At that time, the pueblo had 275 to 325 original rooms spread across three stories, an elevated tower kiva in its central portion,
and a great kiva in its plaza. Subsequent use by local Middle San Juan people (beginning in the 1120s) resulted in extensive
modifications to the original building: hundreds of rooms were reused, many of the original large rooms were divided into smaller
rooms, and more than 20 small kivas were built into pueblo rooms and plaza areas. The site was inhabited by Pueblo people until
the 1280s."
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click here or on the image above for more lowry pueblo photos
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new mexico
lowry pueblo
From Wikipedia:
"The Lowry Pueblo is an Ancestral Puebloan archaeological site located in Canyons of the Ancients National Monument near
Pleasant View, Colorado. The pueblo was constructed around 1060 AD atop abandoned pithouses from an earlier period of occupation.
It was occupied by 40 to 100 people at a time for 165 years. The structure was built up to about 40 rooms and featured multiple kivas.
The architecture of Lowry Pueblo was influenced by the settlement at Chaco Canyon, approximately 100 miles to the south."
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click here or on the image above for more canyonlands photos
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utah
canyonlands national park
From the National Park Service:
"Canyonlands National Park preserves 337,598 acres of colorful canyons, mesas, buttes, fins, arches, and spires in the heart of
southeast Utah's high desert. Water and gravity have been the prime architects of this land, sculpting layers of rock into the
rugged landscape you see today."
We visited on a Saturday along with many other people.
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click here or on the image above for more arches photos
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utah
arches national park
From the National Park Service:
"Visit Arches to discover a landscape of contrasting colors, land forms and textures unlike any other in the
world. The park has over 2,000 natural stone arches, in addition to hundreds of soaring pinnacles, massive fins and giant
balanced rocks. This red-rock wonderland will amaze you with its formations, refresh you with its trails, and inspire you
with its sunsets."
That is, if you can get in. And then there's the matter of parking at the trailheads. And the tour busses and noisy tour groups.
We visited several of the park's 2,000 arches and there were people everywhere. Most of the arches are, thankfully,
accessible only by strenuous hiking trails or the park would be overrun. I don't know what the answer is, but it is not more parking lots.
It's great that people visit these national treasures, but we are loving the places into ruin.
That said, the above-average rainfall this past year has resulted in cactus blooms that a botanist we met on the trail said
occurs only once in ten years, if that. And the arches are amazing...
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click here or on the image above for more capitol reef photos
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Utah
capitol reef national park
From the National Park Service:
"Located in south-central Utah in the heart of red rock country, Capitol Reef National Park is a hidden
treasure filled with cliffs, canyons, domes, and bridges in the Waterpocket Fold, a geologic monocline (a wrinkle
on the earth) extending almost 100 miles...
The most scenic portion of the Waterpocket Fold, found near the Fremont River, is known as Capitol Reef: capitol for the
white domes of Navajo Sandstone that resemble capitol building domes, and reef for the rocky cliffs which are a barrier to
travel, like a coral reef."
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click here or on the image above for more joshua tree national park photos
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California
joshua tree national park
Joshua Tree National Park was in the news during the most recent Trump Shutdown because of the vandalism done to the park
in the absence of park rangers (joshua trees burned, others decorated with holiday lights, off-road driving in sensitive areas
causing damage to the microbiome soil). At least in the areas we visited, there was no damage visible mostly because
the rangers and volunteers cleaned it up, repaired the damage, and even re-seeded the damaged microbiome soil (experimental).
Joshua trees are actually yucca, not trees, but they look like trees, and though they live a long, long time, their
future is not certain: they propagated and spread because the seed pods passed through the digestive tract of the
now-extinct giant three-toed sloth who carried them into areas not yet inhabited by joshua trees.
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click here or on the image above for more Sequoia-King's Canyon and Shaver Lake photos
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California
Sequoia-King's Canyon National Park
We had originally planned on camping in Sequoia National Park, Sentinel Campground, but there were a couple of factors that
made that impossible. One was a controlled burn (and smoke) in the Cedar Grove area, where the campground is. Another is that the facilities
in the campground (showers, laundry, restrooms) were all closed, temporarily. The situation seems to be that the National Park
Service contracts with outside vendors for running the lodges and park facilities, including the campgrounds. In more than a few cases,
there have been abuses of these contracts: for example, Xanterra trademarked all the iconic names, like "Bright Angel Lodge"
and "Grand Canyon Village," probably as a way of 1) hedging their contract or 2) trying to make a killing selling
the name back to the NPS (which is us, actually). In the Grand Canyon case, the Park Service sued and won, and the relationship with Xanterra is done. Aramark is
taking over, and the changeover has not been smooth, hence the closures. At Yosemite, it's worse. A different management company
trademarked "Yosemite Lodge," "Ahwahnee Lodge," "Wawona Hotel,"Curry Village," and even
"Yosemite National Park." The lawsuits are ongoing and $50 million are at stake.
This is what happens when everything is commodified, everything carries a dollar value, everything is reduced to profit.
Questions like "Is it good? Is it the right thing to do?" are irrelevant. "Can we make a lot of money?"
seems to be the only question being asked.
At any rate, we found a place at Elliott House B & B in Shaver Lake, way up in the mountains, two hours from King's Canyon and
way too many hours away from Sequoia. It was a fortuitous departure from plans no less interesting and rewarding.
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click here or on the image above for more yosemite national park photos
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california
yosemite national park
"Get there early" is the advice, and well taken. All the parking lots fill by mid-morning. All the trailhead parking lots
are full. The many shuttle buses are sardine cans squeezed full of people but have their own road lanes. And people who decide it's
a good idea to drive experience 2-3 hour delays because of the congestion. We arrived at Yosemite Village at 7:30 a.m. and found good parking,
yet even a few minutes later all the spots were filling.
Yosemite is a magnificent natural wonder. The waterfalls (Yosemite Falls drops 2,000 feet, twice the height of Niagara Falls) are absolutely
roaring because of all the snowmelt. The Merced River is at flood stage and crashing and spraying along its rocky course. But it seems to
be a theme emerging on this trip, far more than before: we human beings are loving these places to death.
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click here or on the image above for more lassen volcanic photos
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california
lassen volcanic national park
Originally, we had reservations at the Manzanita Campground at Lassen Volcanic National PArk. However, some late-season
heavy snowfall kept the road through the park closed until just before we arrived, and the center section was still not open to
motor vehicles. Just couldn't see setting up a tent on several feet of snowpack...
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click here or on the image above for more redwood national park photos
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california
redwood national park/jedediah smith redwoods state park
This was our third visit to Redwood National Park.
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